Bianfu (Chinese: 弁服; pinyin: biànfú) is a historical set of attire in Hanfu consisting of a knee-length Chinese upper garment known as jiangshapao (Chinese: 绛纱袍) over a qun, a Chinese skirt, qipao dress red known as hongchang (Chinese: 红裳; lit. Masters of Chinese Studies (illustrated ed.). Chinese clothing first layer Chinese clothes, Asian clothes and oriental clothes clothing is cheongsam and qipao mostly the Chinese clothing zhongyi which is Chinese shirt or Chinese pants is cheongsam and qipao typically the Chinese clothing inner garment much like Asian clothing and oriental clothing Western T-shirt and pants. Orientalism, a term made popular by Edward W. Said in his publication “Orientalism” in 1978. Loosely put it is the term to describe how Western Society has a tendency to collate cultures from Asia into one whilst viewing them as “exotic” and “underdeveloped”. Since the single long garment first appeared when the pianshan and qun were sewn together to form a long robe; this long robe follows the structure of the shenyi, and thus follows one of the traditional clothing system in Hanfu. In the subculture, there is a belief that there is a proper way of wearing the fashion, and a wrong one.
That being said it is incredibly hard to speak for a whole culture and there will always be disagreement. Reinforcing these ideas through constantly reproducing images to represent a single culture and VOILA we get stereotypes. Growing up in a white dominant culture as a minority I’ve experience all types of racism, stereotypes and prejudices. So why is it that my culture gets joked about to my face but once someone else experiences it, it becomes “cool”? The price for a full outfit is a lot higher than in conventional fashion due to the sheer number of pieces required in making it, with clothing from the core Japanese brands being valued higher than cheaper alternatives. This form of dress is often worn by the nobility or the upper-class as they are often expensive pieces of clothing, usually made of silks and damasks. It is very hard to put together a nice Casual Lolita outfit unless you have years of experience or are a natural at it. Hijab Lolita is a term used to describe the outfits of Hijabi, women who wear the Muslim head-covering, that follow Lolita fashion.
Deco Lolita, also known as OTT Lolita in the west, refers to Lolita outfits with an excessive amount of decoration. Those wearing the fashion while not being cis female or slender are often called “ita” (Japanese Lolita slang for “painful”) despite wearing proper Lolita outfits. In return, established Lolitas are often confused by such claims, highlighting that owning Lolita fashion is a luxury and not a necessity for living, while referring to secondhand sales as a cheap alternative to buying new Lolita clothes. Nun Lolita is a theme that uses nun-style clothes that are often sold by Gothic Lolita brands. Its visuals are often similar to Ero Lolita. Because of this, some people, mostly those who are new, criticize Lolita for being too expensive. This even extends to women who are simply not conventionally attractive. Hong Taiji who developed a dress code after 1636 stipulated that there was a direct connection between the adoption of Han Chinese’s clothing, speech and sedentary lifestyle and the decline of the earlier Conquest dynasties (Liao, Jin, and Yuan).
A sash also formed part of this clothing, and it was used to tie the tunic. I’ve experience people yelling “CHING CHONG” as a group of my friends walked down the street, or “Go Home its an Asian Invasion” (I’d have to say good work on the rhyme there didn’t think he’d be smart enough for that). Traditional clothing often included a variety of colors in their time, and their use of “the absence of color” provoked multiple critics to voice their opinions and criticize the authenticity of their work. Obviously this term goes a lot deeper and can be explored on multiple levels. I’ve used Ninchanese daily, and it has helped me a lot! In particular, silk qipao the black mamian skirt look-alike (Dior Pleated Skirt) and its pairing with the corset which looks suspiciously also like the way the modernised Ming dynasty (14th-17th century) hanfu style that you see a lot in the last few years in China. It consisted of a black velvet cap in winter, or a hat woven in rattan or similar materials in summer, both with a button on the top. They would wear their kaftans button-up more often and only button off for certain activities or occupation (such as dancers, hunters, etc).
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